Beijing Betty is the latest diner from The Commune Group (also behind equally alliterative Hanoi Hannah, Tokyo Tina and now-closed Saigon Sally). It’s launching at this year’s Australian Open.

The sharing menu draws on the street food of Hong Kong, Beijing and Shanghai, as well as some old-school Cantonese classics with some unexpected touches by executive chef Anthony Choi thrusting things into 2019.

“[I take] my favourite flavours and dishes from traditional Chinese culture and make [them] approachable,” Choi says. “We’re not bound [by] classic Chinese ingredients.”

Visually, the 200-seat pop-up will evoke a busy urban laneway. The colour scheme of the industrial space is dominated by reds, yellows and charcoal, with neon signage on the walls, and ornaments and trinkets dotted around the room.

Har gow (prawn dumplings) come topped with pearls of tobiko, or fish roe, coloured black with squid ink. Each one has a single chive perched elegantly on top. When you bite into their pleated casing it gently gives way, allowing the accompanying house-made XO vinaigrette to flood in.

Kung pao chicken is buttermilk-battered, golden fried chicken coated with Sichuan-spiked palm sugar caramel, dried chilli, and crunchy cashews instead of the usual peanuts. Sticky spiced lamb ribs are braised in master stock for three hours and glazed with hoisin and black vinegar.

A side of sweet, salted cucumber salad goes well with a classic Chinese-style roast duck (it comes with orange-infused hoisin) or five-spice pork belly, a DIY-style dish for diners to assemble with pickles, honey mustard and bao buns.

Meat-free options include mapo tofu, eggplant and doubanjiang (a spicy, salty chilli bean paste bao with pickled mustard leaf), and a plate of fried tofu and heirloom tomatoes with a sweet-and-sour tamarind sauce, coriander and ginger – a recipe borrowed from Hanoi Hannah. Dumplings, spring rolls and bao can be ordered to take away.

Dessert is only available on the banquet menu, which costs $80. Mango parfait with a toasted coconut meringue dome is a riff on a treat commonly served with dim sum at Chinese restaurants. Choi cranks it up with black sesame praline and a pineapple gel.

To drink, you’ll find Piper-Heidsieck champagne, and local drops from Coldstream, St Huberts and Cape Schanck wineries. And blue cocktails are back with the Tennis Blue: Baijiu (a white Chinese spirit), blue curacao and lychee.

Small
Pork wonton, chilli vinegar, ginger
Vegetable dumplings, red vinegar, sesame
Prawn dumplings, XO vinaigrette, topiko
Steamed pulled pork bun, ginger, pickles
Steamed mapo tofu bun, eggplant, pickles

Medium
Crispy tofu, heirloom tomato, tamarind
Bang Bang chicken salad, Sichuan pepper
Sticky lamb ribs, hoisin, coriander
Kung pao chicken, dried chilli, cashew

Large
Steamed cone bay barramundi, bok choy, ginger
Crispy pork, honey mustard, pickles, bao bun
Roast duck, cucumber, orange hoisin, pancake

Extra
Salted cucumber salad
Bao buns
Steamed rice

The Australian Open 2019 is on from January 14 to 27. Beijing Betty will be open to all ticketholders and will operate on a walk-in basis only. beijingbetty.com.au