Like Fitzroy, Richmond has a proud working-class history. This background is still evident in the narrow, one-way streets, even if most of the small worker’s cottages have now been renovated and occupied by young professionals or wealthy downsizers.

The north end, along busy Victoria Street, is the last real holdout against gentrification. Known as Little Saigon, it’s been a destination for authentic, affordable Vietnamese cuisine for decades. For many residents, easy access to steaming bowls of pho and crispy banh xeo pancakes is one of the suburb’s biggest draws.

Another is proximity to the ‘G and other stadiums. Richmond is the place to be if you’re a footy or cricket fanatic. On game days, the area’s many pubs – another vestige of its working class history – are reliably filled with fans grabbing a few pints before the first bounce. One pub, the Corner Hotel, has been a live music venue since the 1940s and hosted names such as Mick Jagger, David Gilmour, the White Stripes, Ben Harper, Crowded House and Queens of the Stone Age.

Bridge Road was once a major retail destination, particularly for clothing. It bottomed out in August 2014 and has been slowly transforming into a dining destination since. Anchovy and Minamishima, two of the city’s best restaurants, call the strip home. There’s also plenty of action on Swan Street in the form of fast-casual chains such as Belles Hot Chicken and Benny Burger.

The south end of Church Street, close to the Yarra, is one of the better places in Melbourne to shop for furniture and homewares.

Restaurants

Kong Richmond

Restaurant

A not-strictly traditional Korean dining experience that's fun and fresh.

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Minamishima

Restaurant

Sushi at a supremely exquisite level.

Future Future

Restaurant

The food at this Japanese diner is far from traditional, but it's authentically simple.

Baby

Restaurant

The sister restaurant to Chin Chin and Kong is all about pizza.

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Anchovy

Restaurant

Fusion doesn't have to be a dirty word. Not at this modern Vietnamese restaurant with an Australian influence, anyway.

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Onda

Restaurant

Colourful walls, colourful food. That's the proposition at this loosely South American eatery with a strong vegetarian slant.

Cafes

Laikon Deli

Cafe

This Greek deli’s third-generation owner is serving contemporary takes on his mother’s recipes.

Top Paddock

Cafe

A local landmark from Melbourne cafe royalty.

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Rowena Parade Corner Store

Cafe

Providing the Richmond community with their daily newspaper, milk and bread since 1956.

Veneziano Coffee Roasters

Cafe

Enter for superb single origin and filter, or invest in a $10 shot of espresso.

Maker Fine Coffee

Cafe

At this “cellar door” for coffee you can taste up to five single-origin brews in a single visit.

Clark Street Coffee

Cafe

Taste, watch and learn at this longstanding coffee roaster's shiny, voyeuristic HQ.

Bars

The Collection

Bar

A Cajun-inspired bar with a serious approach to booze.

Union House

Bar

A big, relaxed pub by the team behind The Marquis of Lorne.

The Ugly Duckling

Bar

A sophisticated wine bar that wants you to feel like you’re entertaining at home.

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Fargo and Co.

Bar

A heritage Commonwealth Bank turned 200-seat double-level bar.

Royal Saxon

Bar

A versatile, multi-leveled bar and a dining space.

Big Dog’s Deli

Bar

An American-style sandwich shop and bar with wine on tap and bottled cocktails.

Shops

Trophy Wife Nail Art

Shop

Creative nail art in Richmond.

Bertie's Butcher

Shop

A butcher and cafe where provenance means everything.

Mark Douglass Design

Shop

Master glassmaker Mark Douglass' elegant retail space in Richmond.

Global Vintage Collective

Shop

Rummage through Californian vintage in Richmond.

Jardan Flagship

Shop

This local and environmentally conscious furniture company has a flagship store in Richmond you’ll wish you could live in.

Atlas Vinifera

Shop

A wine bar and bottle shop, with 350 wines from around the world.