Son of Frank
Son of Frank has struck that elusive balance between the surprising and familiar at Son of Frank. Anthony Canturi (Cho Cho San, The Apollo, Eau De Vie owns the venue with his brother and head chef, Jonathan (Est and The Bridge Room), and describes the food as “Italian-ish”. The brothers have an Italian heritage but serve food that uses the cuisine as an influence, rather than as the main event.
The Son of Frank eggs are a riff on melanzane, or stuffed eggplant. The eggs are poached then battered and fried and served with toast atop the deconstructed melanzane ingredients: a round of crumbed and fried mozzarella, pureed charred eggplant and a dollop of tangy passata. A handful of prosciutto and fresh basil finish the plate.
Some dishes don’t strike an Italian chord at all, like the house-made crumpets served with bacon jam. The crumpets are made with reduced brown-sugar syrup and chilli, and make a tasty foil for the fried-eggs.
Sandwiches include the Reu-bene made with mortadella and prosciutto rather than corned beef, and the meatball sub made with a tangy and sweet tomato sugo. Weekend brunch is decadent, with rum-soaked babas (cake-y Italian doughnuts) served with a tart custard and berries.
Breakfast might involve a fresh tomato juice Bloody Mary, or lunch might include an orange juice-infused Negroni.
The clean, pared back fit-out has a black-and-white botanical mural on one wall, and lush greenery is the only colour in this otherwise neutral space of natural timber and exposed brick.
It’s modern, cosy and a good place to while away an afternoon drinking Bloody Marys and watching Victoria Street go by.