Bad Hombres almost didn’t happen. When Sean McManus of Neighbourhood proposed the idea to his good mate Toby Wilson (chef at Ghostboy Cantina), he received a firm “no". Wilson was quitting the hospitality industry. Thankfully he came around and the pair joined with business partner Jon Kennedy to open this Mexican-inspired eatery.
This is an all-vegan menu and the dishes are inventive without being challenging. Take the cauliflower. Featuring seaweed salt, cashew cream, salsa verde, coriander, crispy shallots and Chinese pancakes, it’s been the most popular dish since the restaurant’s pre-vegan days, and for good reason.
The rotating taco of the week is determined by seasonal produce. You may find your tortilla filled with brussels sprouts, garlic tahini, pickled onion, chilli and mint, or perhaps it’ll be the roasted cabbage with fermented jalapeno hot sauce, avocado and coriander. At lunchtime (Thursday and Friday only), there's a Mexican take on bibimbap, and a vegan version of pambazo, a sort of fried chorizo sandwich popular across Mexico.
As far as wine goes, expect natural drops by producers you may have come across at 10 William Street and The Dolphin, including Good Intentions and Chapter. Also try the Margarita, a delightful union of blanco tequila, Cointreau, lime and Sriracha-infused salt.
The ’80s-inspired playlist creates a party vibe, and the combination of bright red tables and dim lighting eliminates any potential for a successful Instagram shot, instead encouraging good-old-fashioned conversation.
If you intend to visit, don’t delay. The boys haven’t been given a time frame for the length of the pop-up, so play it safe and test those tacos ASAP.